teinture à base d'alcool

Quelqu'un a déjà entendu parl? de teintures ? base d'alcool? Il semblerait que ça ne fasse pas de plaque (blotching), même sur du pin... Et l'odeur partirait bien plus vite aussi...

Yves.

Voici quelques commentaires en anglais

Amateur Woodworker
Wood stains
Choosing a wood stain
Water Stains
Oil Dyes
Alcohol Stains
Pigment Stains
Wax Stains
Introduction

Wood stains should be used to enhance to natural color of a wood, rather than to try and hide or obliterate it. If the latter is your goal then the best bet is to use paint, not stain. There are various types of stain and choosing the right one can appear to be a rather confusing decision. However, what it really boils down to is the following:

* it should be easy to apply
* must be compatible with the finish you have in mind
* must dry within a reasonable amount of time
* should maintain its color without fading

Most wood stains are designed to soak into the wood, but there are exceptions to this rule. Most notably, external wood stains form a thin film on the surface -- not unlike paint -- in order to protect the wood. This is why most stains that you'll find your local store are classified as indoor stains, not outdoor ones. However, many indoor stains are suitable for use outside as long as the wood is subsequently protected by several layers of varnish.
Water Stains

Water stains come as a powder that must be mixed with water. These are the cheapest of all stains but are not typically available in the large home improvement stores. Instead, you will probably have to buy them through a mail order finishing supplier. These stains are only supplied in a few colors -- Vandyke crystals (brown), mahogany (warm brown) and nigrosine (black) -- are the most common. To attain the particular color that you need it will be necessary to mix these three together. To change the depth of the color, adjust the powder to water ratio.

Applying a water stain

Apply the stain to the wood with a cloth or paint brush. A brush is best if you are staining carvings, moldings or any other irregularly-shaped item. However, a cloth holds more stain and, for flat surfaces, is much easier to use. Before applying the first layer of stain, lightly wet the wood. This will help to produce an even spread of the stain. Make sure that you have enough for the whole job: it is far better to throw away the excess than it is to try and match the previous batch's color precisely.

Don't pour the stain on, but be very generous its application. Water stains dry very slowly, so you should rub-off the excess stain using a paper towel or a lint-free cloth. Once the stain has dried, apply more stain to any areas that have become too light. Note: water stains appear to dry in about 40 minutes but a second coat should not be applied for at least 12 hours.
Oil Dyes

Oil dyes usually come ready mixed and are classified by the type of wood they most closely match (such as oak, mahogany and so on). These color names should be used as a rough guide only and should not stop you from experimenting. For example, the bird table (Vol. I, Issue was stained with a cherry-based color, even though it was made out of pine, thus giving it a deep red color more in keeping with its new habitat.

To lighten the color of a particular dye, thin it out using an appropriate solvent. Oil dyes are well suited to outdoor applications as they take an average time to dry (between 30 -40 minutes); water stains dry too slowly and alcohol stains dry too quickly for large applications.

Applying an oil dye

Oil dyes can bite deeply into uneven grain, such as is found with beech, and this can produce an uneven, patchy finish. To overcome this problem it is imperative that the wood be prepared carefully and is well sanded. Oil dyes can be applied using a brush or a cloth.
Alcohol Stains

Alcohol-based stains are the choice of most professional woodworkers because of the wide range of colors available. They are sold in powder form and must be mixed to the right color. Because they are alcohol-based, these stains can also be mixed with shellac polish for color matching and minor touch-ups during the polishing process.

Alcohol stains dry very quickly (typically in about five minutes) and are therefore ideally suited to spray application. However, the fact that they dry so quickly can also cause problems and a patchy finish is not unknown.

Applying an alcohol-based stain

As mentioned above, the best way of applying this stain is to use a spray gun. Apply the stain sparingly, or the dye will be removed by the polish. You can also dip with alcohol stains, ie put the object into the container of stain. The best approach to this is to dip the object in and leave immersed for about five minutes. Whichever application method you decide to use, it is a good idea to add a little transparent French polish to the mix as this will help to adhere the stain to the wood.

amwood

Et Voici ce que dit Zinnssher

zinsse

Bonjour,

Teinture ? l'alcool (N.G.R.) Solution

Liants :
-Méthanol (Alcool de bois)
-éthanol (Alcool dénaturé)
-GMB
-Diluant ? laque

Pigments :
Colorants inorganiques solubles (0,5% ? 100%)

L'application
Sur quoi : Bois nu seulement

Comment :
Au pistolet = 99,9% du temps. Par couches mouillées et uniformes dans le sens du grain du bois

1 couche => surfaces simples
2 couches => surfaces complexes;
Par immersion (très rare);
Au chiffon effets spéciaux (très rare)

Séchage
Temps : 5 minutes (le plus rapide sur le march?)
Comment : sèche par évaporation

Caractéristiques :
Ne relève pas le grain du bois (Non Grain Raising)
Sèche rapidement
Non migration des pigments
Donne de la profondeur
Sert souvent de couche de départ (bois nu) dans un système de finition, afin de donner la couleur de fond désirée;
Peut être suivie d'une teinture essuyée.

Inconvénients :
Demande une bonne dextérité d'application
ça ne pardonne pas
Si l'application est trop foncée, ne jamais laver. Il faut sabler pour pâlir.

* Toujours conserver la teinture dans un contenant de plastique, les pigments N.G.R. attaquent le métal des contenants et des godets.


Exemple de système
Appliquer le N.G.R.
Séchage 5 min.
Teinture essuyée
Séchage 30 ? 60 min.
Scellant
Séchage ? 60 min.
Sabl? #320
Laque


Lecujean dit le finisseur

Je n'ai pas eu le temps encore de tout lire les liens, peut-être en font-ils mention: les teintures ngr ont avantage ? être recouvertes d'une teinture supplémentaire d'un autre type afin de les stabiliser. Ils ont tendance ? réagir aux ultraviolets.
Un fabriquant d'armoire de cuisine pour qui j'ai travaill? utilisait des teintures ngr comme "shader" (création d'ombrage dans les reliefs). Lorsque je répondais ? des appels de services, il était impossible d'agencer les nouveaux panneaux aux anciens tellement ceux-ci avaient été altérés, en particulier ceux exposés ? la lumière venant des portes patios.
Les teintures ngr sont principalement utilisées comme "toner" puisqu'ils donnent une teinte rapidement tout en conservant une transparence et une brillance de couleur.
J'ai l'occasion de travailler souvent avec ce type de teinture et l'effet (justement d? ? la transparence) permet des résultats étonnants.

Merci beaucoup pour vos réponses. Je crois que je vais rester avec la teinture ? l'huile dans ce cas. La teinture ? l'eau me tente mais le sablage supplémentaire me dégoûte un peu.

Yves.

[quote:6c8a6ee573="SPORTY430"]Quelqu'un a déjà entendu parl? de teintures ? base d'alcool? Il semblerait que ça ne fasse pas de plaque (blotching), même sur du pin... Et l'odeur partirait bien plus vite aussi...

Yves.[/quote:6c8a6ee573]

Les anciens artisans vendent une teinture "hydro Alcool" moi j'ai pas eu de bons résultats avec, mais c'est peut-être moi le problème. Par contre pas de teinte très foncées. Effectivement sèche hyper vite et tu peux reprendre ta teinte en mouillant l'endroit avec un linge imbib? de la teinture.